Egg To Yearling Crested Gecko Care

(Visit Yearling to Adult gecko care for care info on older geckos)


 (Important notes will be in Bold)



When feeding crested geckos, you should always make sure its a complete diet for crested geckos, something like Pangea or Repashy are the better brands out there and come in a wide variety of flavors. I personally use and suggest Pangea because mine won’t eat repashy. When mixing the food, shoot for a ketchup like consistency, too thin and they won’t eat it, too think and the will have trouble eating it.

You can offer insects as well, just make sure they soft bodied, like crickets or dubia roaches. Always make sure to dust a couple with calcium powder and only offer as a treat, as they don’t offer enough nutrients to be a staple diet.

Always make sure to offer fresh water, only use purified water or buy a reptile safe water conditioner that will make tap water safe. Never use tap water or distilled water. Tap contains metals and chlorine, which can harm the gecko, and distilled is only vapor and contains no nutrients.

~Never catch insects from outside to feed your gecko, as they could have parasites that could kill your gecko! Also, do not buy pet store brand crested gecko foods(zoomed, all living things, ex) as they normally never have enough vitamins or nutrients to suit the gecko’s needs and many geckos won’t eat them.~


Tank sizes that I’d suggest based on my experience with the different age groups below.(width x depth x height; based on inches)

~This is just a guide, each gecko grows at its own rate and may need to be upgraded sooner than listed. You can use storage totes or glass tanks, as long as there in enough ventilation.~

Newborns to 6 months(babies)- 7x5x7 to 7x5x12

6 months to 1 year(juveniles)- 12x12x18

~Never house more than 1 gecko per tank, as they could fight for territory, kill their tank mate, or eat all the food so the other one will starve/not get enough food to sustain itself.Geckos are solitary animals and want to live alone, they don’t need friends or cuddle mates, they don’t desire to have that kind of relationship like humans do.~


Feeding Guide

Don’t overfeed as the geckos can become overweight and that can lead to health issues. This is just a guide, adjust as needed if your gecko wants to eat more or not as much, just make sure to weigh monthly to make sure there aren’t any huge weight losses. Healthy weights will be mentioned a little later. You can use a small plastic coffee stir straw to easily mix your gecko’s food, as I’ve found they work best and you can buy 300 for around $4 at the grocery stores.

~Never feed your gecko something that isn’t for them, that means no fruit, no baby foods, excetera. They can be too high in sugar and salts(with hardly any nutrients). Fruit wise, there could be pesticides in/on it, its just best to stick to their gecko powder and insects.~

Newborn to 3 months(babies)- every day: offer around half to an 1/8th a teaspoon

3 months to 1 year(juveniles)- every other day: 1/8th to 1/4th a teaspoon


72-76 Degrees F.

Heat isn’t normally needed, but if the temps drop below 70 F. then you can use a infrared space heater(the safest kind) for the room, a small heat mat or heat lamp with a 25 watt exo terra daylight bulb. You can use a heat mat or a lamp as long as you have a thermostat to control them so they don’t get above 77 degrees.

~It is important to purchase a reliable thermometer and hygrometer to be able to measure the temps and humidity of your gecko’s tank! The best one I’ve found so far and personally have 7 of is Pangea’s Digital Temp & Humidity, which can be found on their website(

Anything above 78 degrees is too warm and anything below 68 degrees is too cold~


Healthy Weights

Make sure to buy a scale that can weigh grams so you can make sure your gecko is a healthy weight. Weighing once a month is suggested. Keep a book for weights to keep track of growth:)

Babies: new to 8 months- 2 grams to 15 grams

Juveniles: 8 months to 1 year.- 15 grams to 25 grams

~Never let your gecko get any bigger than 75 grams(by that point they are already overweight), as they will become less active and just sit around. An overweight gecko isn’t cute and needs to be put on a diet, other wise its lifespan will be shortened, just like with humans. To diet your gecko, feed them a little less each feeding and monitor their weight weekly until its back down in the mid to high 60s~


Eggs- 80-100%

Hatchlings: Day time- 50-60%(the dry out period)

Hatchlings: Night time- 80-100%(geckos are most active at night)

*If you’re having trouble with humidity levels in your glass tanks, try using a damp rag or plastic wrap over half the tank’s mesh top to help hold in humidity during the winter or any dry periods.*

~Never let it stay dry or wet all the time for long periods of time, they can get fungal infections from it being too wet, and respiratory infections from it being too dry.~


safe substrate: hatchlings

Paper Towels are the safest substrate choice when it comes to babies from the ages of new hatch to 6 months old.

Once a baby hits that 6th month, you can start to introduce Eco Earth if you choose so.

~Never use only sand, aquarium rocks, or wood chips, as the gecko could ingest them and become impacted, which means they will get backed up in their intestinal tract and will eventually die.

Reptile carpet is a bad choice only because its terrible about holding bacteria and mold unless cleaned every day.

Never collect substrate from outside as it could have mites or parasites in it that could harm or kill your gecko~

safe substrate: Eggs

Things like damp reptile moss, damp Paper Towels, or Hatch Rite are safe substrate choices.

~Never use sand, aquarium rocks, or wood chips.

Never collect anything from outside as it could have mites or parasites in it that could harm or kill your gecko~



Crested Geckos like plenty of ares to hide and seek cover in order to feel safe, so to begin with, supplying around 2 hanging plants if your baby is newly hatched and in a small temporary housing container(measurements mentioned under Housing). Once the baby hits around 3-4 months old and has been upgraded to the next suggested size up, you can provide 3 plants. once they baby hits 6 months, it can then be moved into a 10 gallon sized tank, where you can provide 4 to 6 hanging plants, a vine, a branch or cork log, and a feeding ledge (These are suggested for a comfortable starter environment). These are important to make your gecko comfortable and safe in their new home. Always use reptile safe decor items so your geckos don’t get hurt. If there is any exposed metal or sharp edges, using hot glue is a safe way to cover it to keep it from harming your gecko.

~I suggest getting the tank ready way in advance as to avoid having to run around to stores trying to find stuff you still need when you have just gotten the gecko. Don’t fill the tank so full that the gecko can’t get around easily, but don’t have it so bare that you can see the gecko immediately. A tank with little hidy areas equals a stressed and flighty gecko.

Never use items gathered outside as decor! There are plenty of places like and that have low prices on good, safe decor items.~


When you first get your gecko, you need to let it settle in for at least 7 days with minimal to no handling, so it can adjust to its new environment. Always be gentle when holding your gecko, don’t squeeze it or grab it roughly, and make sure not to grab the tail as it will drop it if it feels threatened.

“Hand walking” is the best way to handle a new gecko. By letting it walk from one hand to the next is a good way to let the gecko get used to you. If it ever runs up your arm, just placing a open hand in front of it works well, as they’ll walk right onto it. If it stops, just gently scoop it up from the belly.

If a gecko drops it’s tail, it won’t grow back. It’s not the end of the world if the gecko drops the tail, just make sure the area heals right and doesn’t get infected.

Try keeping the gecko in a peaceful part of the house where there aren’t tons of loud noises all the time, as this will lead to the gecko being nervous and prone to biting or running away when the tank door is opened. Some may even become stressed and stop eating.

~Never take your gecko outside unless its in a travel container and if its a safe temperature out. If a gecko gets scared it will run, so its safer to not let it loosely roam outside(or in your room without being supervised)~


cleaning & cleaners

Emptying out the tank and doing a deep clean every few days, weekly, or bi-weekly (depending on how dirty/messy their tank gets) is suggested for a nice clean tank for your gecko. Spot cleaning every couple of days will make the deep clean easier when its time to be done. Always use reptile safe soap when cleaning the tank, decor, and any feeding dishes. I’ve personally used Flukers Organic Cleaner Super Scrub for 4 years and it does great for basic cleaning.

I use F10 Veterinary Disinfectant from pangea’s website for cleaning old tanks that new animals will be going into. Its a strong cleaner that will will any germs from the previous animal. With every deep clean, always add new substrate.

~If you have a Bio-active tank, then you can skip a lot of the deep cleaning steps. Your clean up crew will do a big majority of the cleaning for you.

deep cleaning steps

  1. Remove the reptile, placing it in a secure container with ventilation.

  2. Remove all hides, decor, and throw away the current substrate.

  3. Rince and clean all the decor and dishes with reptile safe soap, either using a bath tub or a hose outside. Use as hot of water as you can stand as to kill any bacteria

  4. After cleaning and rincing the decor and dishes, allow them to dry while you clean the tank itself. Get a damp rag with the reptile soap and scrub the tank down. After that, rince the rag and go over the tank with just water to remove any soap residue.

  5. After drying the tank and adding the new substrate, dry the decor and dishes if they need it and place them back into the tank.

other info

*When being held, geckos feel safest when their whole body is being supported with either your hand(s) or resting on an arm.

*If a reptile becomes depleted of calcium, it can get what’s called MBD(Metabolic Bone Disease) which is life threatening and will kill the gecko. It makes their bones like rubber to where they can’t eat and can’t walk; it’s a painful way to die. Buying multi-vitamins and calcium powder at a pet store(I personally use ZooMed brand with no problems) to add to the gecko’s food once a week(do not add both vitamins at the same feeding, do calcium for one feeding and multi-vitamins for the next, never at the same time) Add a very small amount when adding vitamins, remember the gecko has a small body, so don’t add too much or they could overdose.(too much calcium at once can stop the heart; this even applies to humans, not just animals) Using a plastic coffee stir straw works well for not only adding a small amount of vitamins, but also for stirring your gecko’s food.*Crested Geckos without tails are called frog butts.

*Crested Geckos can jump up to 2 times their own length.

*Crested Geckos have Prehensile tails, which means they have flexible muscles in their tails that allow them to curl them around branches, it also helps them to balance.

*Aside from jumping around in their tanks, crested geckos are completely quiet. They do sometimes make chirping noises through their nose, but its still very hard to hear unless you’re right next to their tank. The only time they squeak is when they get startled or are being defensive.



Reptiles in general should not be exposed to cigarette smoke, scented candles, air fresheners(spray, mist, or oils), hand lotions, cleaning products that aren’t reptile safe, and perfumes. Keeping them in a room where they aren’t exposed to any of these will keep them healthier and longer lived.

Reptiles exposed to 1st, 2nd, or 3rd hand cigarette smoke have been reported getting cancer or having respiratory , chronic eye, or shin issues down the line. Marijuana and Cigars are also known to be toxic to reptiles and will cause similar if not the same results.

Hand lotion from our hands can be absorbed through the reptile’s skin and can harm the geckos(being most hand lotions are toxic to reptiles), so its advised to clean your hands of any lotion with soap before handling.

Loud noises will also make your gecko more nervous and stressed, which can cause a tail drop or a lack of appetite due to being scared(geckos are more prone to biting when nervous or stressed and may start to lose weight due to lose of appetite)